

ss. michele et gudule cathedral - grand centraal - grotmarkt - city hall - manneken pis - french - cobblestone - dirty - hotel carrefour de l'Europe - waffles and ice cream - deserted metro - abandoned buildings - arabic neighborhood - jambon cuit - beggars - pakistani shop - french province - dominican friar - fantastic window view - brugge - canals - narrow streets - church of our lady - reliquaries - marching band - dairy cows - green pastures - mimes - rotterdam - erasmus - slim trams - flat countryside - windmills - mother theresa's sisters
Wednesday 14 April to Monday 19 April 2004
14 April 2004 Brussels I've made it to Belgium! I can't say that I am impressed, at least yet. But I'm getting ahead of myself. I caught the bus in Oxford around 7:30AM and made it to London's Victoria Station around 9:30AM. That allowed me to change my pounds to euros and to make a last minute check on e-mail and internet news. I boarded the Eurostar (train) for the 12:39PM departure, and it was a lovely trip ... and fast. It took a full twenty minutes to cross the English Channel via the Chunnel. Then onto the French countryside, which is quite lovely, at least in the area where we were. About 30 minutes later we were in Belgium; that includes a stop in Lille, France, to discharge passengers. Brussels was just a hop and a skip from there. After a bit of fumbling around I found the hotel and settled in. Brussels is not nearly as clean as London and Oxford, actually rather dirty. There is a beautiful square and lovely narrow streets lined with shops and restaurants. It should be nice to walk through them as the suns sets.
Tomorrow I hope to take the train to Bruge, which is an ancient city on the coast of Belgium. It is less than an hour away. One day I hope also to visit Antwerp. I may stay here until Monday morning, the hotel room is comfortable, and I could use some rest. TV may not be much of an attraction; it's in many languages, and only a few in English (and programs that I am not much interested in).
Well, let me take a look around. I am again feeling a little disconnected and uncomfortable with the newness, but I am sure I'll make a quick adjustment.
15 April 2004 Brussels Well, I'm not sure what to think. I walked a lot today and was not impressed by and large. As I said yesterday, Brussels is not a very clean city; the main part of the functioning part of the city is quite run down as a matter of fact. There are many deserted buildings along the main business boulevard. It surprises me.
Of course, what else would you think about a city whose primary mascot is a urinating boy! That's right: the statue is called "Manneken Pis." Apparently this boy, centuries ago, saved the city from a devastating fire when he put it out. Either he had to go real bad or this was not much of a fire. This statue is for sale everywhere. Now let's get political. Europeans will not like this, but Brussels is the capitol of the European Union. Isn't it appropriate that the Manneken Pis is the symbol of the capitol of Europe? How can anyone take Europe seriously?
I visited the Cathedral of Brussels, the church of Saints Michael and Gudule; It is a very lovely church thqt was built in 1226; it did take three centuries to finish. But it is indeed beautiful. There are also some lovely views of the city. Unfortunately, when you get up closer it is not as nice.
I also had my first Belgian waffle. Hey, it's a waffle. Come to think of it, Brussels is known for waffling and a peeing boy. My goodness.
You might get the impression that I am less than thrilled about Brussels. You might be correct; although, I am less than accustomed to it yet, so things might change
Friday 16 April 2004 Brussels This was a domestic day. I did absolutely no sight-seeing. Actually I may have seen more than enough of Brussels. I am looking forward to getting into the countryside tomorrow for a break from this city. This morning I checked out the train stuff. I have a Eurail pass which allows me to travel fifteen days during the time I am here. I wasn't certain about the procedures, but now it is somewhat clearer. After that I was bound and determined to unload some of my unneeded stuff, hopefully sending it back to the States. After some searching and a lot of asking (trying to understand French), I finally found a post office and purchased two mailing boxes. I boxed up some stuff to send back and returned to the post office. On the way I noticed a laundromat...Thank God, I desperately need it! Well, I went to the post office and sent it off. I'm quickly learning that weight, especially when you need to lug it up stairs, is not good and certainly not fun!
So I returned to the hotel room and gathered my laundry. I probably should not have been surprised, but I was. The washing machines and dryers are just like back home. O happy day! (sorry, Gloria Jiggetts!) Laundry washed, dried and folded; my world is once again at peace.
That doesn't sound like I did much, but when you don't know where things are, how things are done; well, it took most of the day.
Have I mentioned that the smell of Belgian waffles is making me gag?
I'm looking forward to tomorrow.
Saturday 17 April 2004 Brugge/Brussels What a pleasant break from Brussels. The train ride to Brugge, which is on the west coast of Belgium, was relaxing. Even though Brugge is just one more old town with a lot of old stuff, it was a delightful place. The narrow streets, well-kept houses, beautiful canals, churches and public buildings were charming. There was also a marching band to liven things up some. I was told that the crowds of tourists today in Brugge is nothing compared to the summer. If today is any indication, do NOT visit Brugge in the summer; even today it was too crowded for me. The crowds prompted me to wander off to a back street thinking I was keen enough to find my way around. I got lost, but it was a pleasant getting lost ... until I wound up in the same place several times. I had to ask for help, and it was kindly given. The train ride back was comfortable. It's about an hour between Brussels and Brugge.
Given my new fondness for trains I may take the train to Rotterdam, Netherlands, on Monday. We'll see.
I have made firm plans to make the move to Rome. Tuesday I leave Brussels for Milan; I'll stay there two days, then it's off to Rome and lodging with the friars. That should make my time more comfortable.
18 April 2004 Brussels It has been a cold, wet and dreary day, which was just made for staying in and reading or watching television. I did that. I did go to church first, at the Cathedral of St. Michael and Gudule. I told you about the place the other day. Nothing terribly unusual about the Mass, except of course, I couldn't understand 95% of the French in which they spoke. The main celebrant was a young, energetic Dominican priest. Of course, not understanding a word he said he could have been a complete nut case. I'll never know. Again, however, it struck me how old the congregation was, even older than the London crowds. They weren't terribly interested in participating either. The music was all right, a professional women's group from France. If you like strange, discordant French music, they would have been to your liking. I wasn't a big fan. From the looks of it, neither was the congregation. Am I cranky, or what?
The rest of the day was spent inside. Although I sent home some of my heavier cold weather clothing, I am still in good shape as long as it doesn't get a whole lot colder than this. It didn't rain much, just enough to make it unpleasant for most of the day.
Tomorrow I am almost certainly going to Rotterdam, Netherlands. I don't think there is much to see, but I just want to say "I was in the Netherlands." It doesn't cost me any more, just some time, which I have before leaving for Italy.
Did I tell you yet that they eat waffles with ice cream beginning early in the morning around here? They do. I imagine most kids would enjoy that breakfast! I found it repulsive. Besides gagging on the smell of these super-sweet Belgian waffles, the ice cream just does not cut it for an early morning experience.
19 April 2004 Rotterdam I took the train out of Brussels today to make a visit to the Netherlands, specifically Rotterdam. It's a lovely place, at least what I'm seeing of it. The train ride was very nice, although I didn't see one dutch tulip along the way. Perhaps they are past tulip season here. I feel a little more at home here. There seems to be a fondness for things American here: plenty of McDonalds and Burger Kings, but alas no 7-11's!
I think I have managed the train thing pretty well. I'm so glad I got a Eurail Pass, which gives me unlimited travel, by and large. It's a snap to use.
Back to Rotterdam. I am surprised by this city. It has a thriving, or what looks like a thriving business district and a lot of shopping areas. I'm glad I took the trip today. All the way up (northward from Brussels) it was overcast and dreary. The sun is shining nicely here. I was tempted to go to Amsterdam, but I'll head back soon. Tonight I pack up and leave Brussels in the morning.
What did I say yesterday about the train to Italy? I am taking the Eurostar train to Paris; there I change trains for Lyons, France, and Milan, Italy. I'm staying in Milan for two nights. I want to re-visit the Basilica of St. Ambrose. Seeing Milan in the spring might be nice. Thursday it is off to Rome.
19 April 2004 Brussels (Second entry) The train back to Brussels was very relaxing. With the sunshine I was able to enjoy a great view of a very pleasant countryside. I did indeed see a few tulips on the way back, just a few. The land is very flat here and has many canals, large and small. The farms are very small and very nicely tended. There are many large greenhouses in rural Netherlands. There are also many orchards; the apple or pear trees were in full bloom. Quite beautiful.
As we made our way back into Brussels I noticed a street right next to the railroad with women, scantily clad, dancing in the windows. From the signs I assume it was a red-light zone. It was not a great neighborhood from the looks of it.
The sun was shining when I returned to Brussels, and there was a wonderful sunset.
I'll check back in tomorrow evening after arriving in Milan.
For those who have e-mailed, be patient. The internet connection here in Brussels is not the greatest. Hopefully I'll be able to respond to all those messages on Tuesday evening. Your messages are a great blessing; please stay in touch.