Tuesday 20 April to Saturday 8 May 2004

20 April 2004 Brussels/Paris/Milan What a wonderful day of travel!   I am so glad I decided to take the train from Brussels, through Paris and onto Milan. I caught the 11:40AM train to Paris, and had a lovely view of the countryside. Southern Belgium and northern France are flat, with small farm fields and small pastures. There are also many villages and towns. Many of the fields were bright yellow - some sort of crop that was in full bloom. The farms are well-maintained and just beautiful to see.   Let's back up a bit. When I found my seat I discovered a was sitting across from a man whose legs were stretched out to my side, and he had stuff spread out on the tiny table, which was for both of us. He remained on his cell phone - you guessed it, French! With some   trouble and restraining myself from punching him out, I finally settled in. Thank goodness we parted ways in Paris.

When I got to Paris I thought my train was leaving from the station at which we arrived. Wrong! I decided to get a taxi to take me to the other station. That turned out to be a good decision because I was exposed ever so little to Paris, and it made me want to come back for a longer visit. Anyway I got to the other train station, and we departed right on time. We headed south   towards Lyons. I wish I could have taken photos from the train, but the   double-pane glass and speed make for very bad pictures. The scenery was even more beautiful than the first leg of today's travels. The larger fields and pastures with small herds of cattle, it was just picture perfect. But it gets even better. Well before I thought we would, we soon arrived in the Alps. Good Lord! The high, snow-capped mountains, broad valleys and wonderful villages would have made great photos. Gradually the mountains grew taller and the valleys narrowed, and before I knew it our train was halfway up a very steep mountain. Did you ever see a movie or picture of a train hugging the side of a cliff? That's where I was today. I looked down and thought if we derail now it is definitely over. Aside from the momentary panic, I just could not believe my eyes at the absolutely fantastic landscape.

There were only ten people in the car, and I could jump from one side to the other to get both views. At one point I think I lost any concern for being cool; I was just like a kid taking it all in! Just so I wouldn't make   Americans look bad, I said "O mon Dieu! O mon Dieu!," hoping the French get blamed for this tourist's outbursts. If the trip had ended last night all of it would have been worth it because of the incredible journey. We gradually made our way out of the mountains onto the broad plain that leads into Milan about an hour later. The trip was long, about eight hours.

I struck up a great conversation with a young Japanese woman. She knew enough English and I enough Italian to make it work. We wished each other luck as we disembarked from the train in the Milan Central Station. I needed it because I didn't know where the hotel was, and I was not sure it existed. After a call, I was able to find my way. This hotel was billed as a four-star hotel on the website. It isn't, but it will do for the night. I just wonder if I'll ever fall asleep after such a great voyage through the French countryside and the Alps.

21 April 2004 Milan I stayed in all morning, trying to rest up a bit more from yesterday's  excitement. The hotel must not be that bad because I woke up! I am still alive. Don't worry it's not that bad at all! Probably just a bad joke.   Most know that I have been to Milan once before, and I was looking forward to seeing the city in sunshine. When I visited here in 2000 it was cloudy and rainy virtually everyday. But first I had to get tickets for the train to Rome for tomorrow. It was a breeze. I then went to the subway, heading for the center of the city, where the Duomo or cathedral is. As I ascended the steps onto the plaza I noticed that the entire front of the church was draped in construction webbing, hiding the Duomo for sandblasting. Darn! So I went   inside wanting to find the palce where St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine in   387AD. I asked the English-fluent cathedral tourist official, she did not   know! I knew it was here somewhere. Finally I noticed some stairs leading down, this was it. I bought a ticket from the agent, who was surprised by   my new information. I descended the steps, I was the only one under the grand cathedral and saw what remains of the gigantic baptistry or pool that was at the entrance of the first church on this site. It was indeed the baptismal pool where St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine. Wonderful. I just hope the pictures come out.

After leaving there I just walked around and watched people. Eventually I   asked at the tourist information desk if there was an internet shop nearby.    She pointed it out on the map. After a lot of wrong turns, I am here.

My next posting will be from Rome. I am looking forward to the train ride   through Lombardy and Tuscany.

22 April 2004   Milan/Rome I got a relatively early start, organized my things, checked out of the hotel and caught a bite to eat at McDonalds (la croissant con creme, frutta et Diet Coke!)   I could also have had beer at this McDonalds. It was morning, but the beer was on just about every table but mine. Milan's Central Station was only a block away, so I had some time to spend sitting at McDonald's outside sidewalk tables. It was a beautiful morning in Milan. Eventually I made it to the train station, found my seat and readied myself for the four and half hours trip to Rome. We traveled through Lombardy, Emilio, Romagna, Tuscany and the eastern part of Umbria.    Although there were some very beautiful views, there were also far too many tunnels. I don't recall that many from the trip a little over three years   ago.

The train arrived right on time at the Rome Central Terminal; I quickly   found a taxi and was delivered promptly at the headquarters of the   Capuchins, who greeted me very warmly. I was shown a room, took a short   walk and joined the friars for evening prayer and supper. All in all it was not a very eventful day. I'm glad I came here to the Capuchin headquarters,   though. Already friars from other European countries are making sure that I   get a place to stay when visiting their countries in the weeks ahead. You   can't beat these lodging prices!

Tomorrow I plan to comfortably see some of the sites of Rome, perhaps making my way to the Vatican museum. Sometime next week I hope to make it to Assisi for a couple of days, then to Florence and Siena.

23 April 2004 Rome The street noise was a little more than I am recently accustomed to, so I had more than a little trouble getting to sleep. Maybe it was because I had no Diet Coke. You laugh!

Today was a great day to walk, and did I walk. I never made it to the Vatican. It was good revisiting some of the places I saw three years ago and seeing things I don't remember about those places. I walked from Via Piemonte to the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore, that's quite a walk! Then onto the Lateran Basilica and the Coliseum after that. I had a delightful lunch of gnocchi and wine right on the sidewalk overlooking the Coliseum.

It was too good.

Not knowing exactly where I was going, I bumped into the Church of Jesus (Gesu). I need to mention that because Bishop Bennett insisted that I see it the last time I was here. Almost four years later I have finally seen it. It is the church of the Jesuits in Rome. From there I went to Piazza Navonna. It was wonderful seeing the artists, the musicians, the tourists. It is a delightful place just to relax and enjoy. I visited the Church of St. Agnes, which is on this particular plaza, and I prayed for my mother, whose name was Agnes.

The crowds on this Friday evening began to grow as I walked towards the Spanish Steps. I was barely able to make my way up because of all the folks sitting on the steps.

I came to realize today that we all have a gimmick, an angle and a way of getting what we want! There are many people selling junk, begging, blowing bubbles, acting like statues, dressing up like Roman centurions, painting, singing -- all to make some money. And they are just the folks lingering on the streets. Then you have the stores, the restaurants, transportation, and, yes, even the churches, trying to make a buck. Ah, it's just part of reality, isn't it?

I will try to get to the Vatican tomorrow. I have also made reservations to be in Florence on Monday through Wednesday. That should be great.

Before I close, and if I don't get a chance to get on-line tomorrow, I need to wish my sister, Joanne, a 'happy birthday!'

24 April 2004 Rome Happy Birthday to my sister, Joanne! She has turned ...oops! I had the occasion to call her and extend birthday greetings right in the middle of St. Peter's Square. More on that a bit later.

I was in dire need of doing laundry. I could have done it at the friary, no   doubt, but I saw a laundromat with internet access, so I decided to go there.   And it was a nice time, the ladies there helped me out nicely. By the way, I don't think I will share with the entire world anymore when and how I get lost on this journey. From now on you will not hear about my poor sense of direction in a new city.

With laundry done, I was a happy camper. I thought it would be nice to call   my sister from St. Peter's, so I decided to walk there, leisurely strolling   through Borghese Gardens. The park (or gardens) was very lovely, and it was a great part of the day's walking. From the park I descended into Piazza del Popolo. As I crossed the Tiber River, it began to sprinkle. For once I had left everything behind in my room. There was no sense in walking all the way   back to get it; I just hoped the sprinkles would soon fade. They didn't.   Seeking shelter from the rain I ducked under overhangs and squeezed tightly against walls to stay relatively dry. After an hour of that little exercise   in futility, I pressed on to the Vatican. The sun soon broke out, and I   decided I needed lunch at Piazza de Risorgimento. That was nice and relaxing while the sun dried me out! I ordered Diet Coke with my meal. The food was cheap; unknown to me until the bill arrived, the soft drink was $6! BAM! Got me, you suckers!

I wanted to enter St. Peter's Square from the best vantage point, to see it   in all its splendor. It was a little more walking but worth it. As I stood   in the middle of the square, I called Joanne. Later she even heard the 5PM bells ring. Too cool.

Let me take a break here and mention something about Rome and motorcycles. For someone who doesn't ride a motorcycle well (right, Lee Grant?), this city is like a nightmare of cyclists. The only good thing about them is that they cannot talk on cell phones while riding. If they could I am certain they would. They are a possessed bunch of creatures from hell. The motorcycles are not large at all, just everywhere.  And someone needs to teach this city how to park a car!

All right, I feel better.

I've been to the Vatican before so it didn't have the same excitement as the   first time, but it still was quite spectacular. I decided to see how large   the square is, so I stepped it off: 250 steps from one side to the other.

After attending Saturday evening Mass at a small church along the way, I   found myself at the bottom of those darn Spanish Steps. It isn't too far from   the friary from this internet point, so I don't have too much more walking to   do.

I haven't decided yet what to do tomorrow. Perhaps I'll go back to the   Vatican and go inside. Speaking of which, everyone has to go through security to enter the Basilica. It's like airport security.

On a final note for today, this is Day 30 of my travels. It has recently struck me as odd that I am doing this traveling. Although some of my family may see it a little differently, I tend to stay close to what I am used to; this journey is new territory mentally for me. I'm enjoying it, but I am also   surprised by my wanting to do it.

25 April 2004 Rome What I put on the website yesterday was slightly before my day ended. And I need to mention an enjoyable late supper at a nearby restaurant. I entered the place and was told to go to the cashier, who promptly charged me for a meal, which I had not yet enjoyed! Then I sat down. Two waiters came running over and began motioning and speaking to me (in Italian, of course) to go back to the cashier. It turned out that she mistook me for another customer. I got my money back. It was rather confusing for me, but it all worked out in the end. I noticed a young man sitting at the table next to me, alone and   trying to communicate with the waiter. This young man had a North American   accent. Sensing his discomfort, I invited him to have his meal at my table. In the blink of an eye he was at my table. We had a pleasant conversation. He is from Canada, and I cannot remember his name. It was nice to have a face-to-face conversation with someone else. He also gave a recommendation, which turned out to be very good. From the restaurant I went back to the friary and called it a day.

It was cold and wet this morning, so I decided to stay in until the weather improved. Eventually it did, and I went to the train station to make arrangements to travel to Florence tomorrow. I met two American women, traveling separately. We chatted for a bit. One of them is a vegetarian chef who has come to Italy to work in a vegetarian restaurant. She could not mention often enough that she was a vegetarian and a vegetarian chef and will write a vegetarian cookbook. That vegetarian stuff got on my nerves real quick. It made me hungry for a fat, juicy steak!

Well, I got the ticket and wanted to follow up the Canadian's advice that I return to the Coliseum and treat myself to a guided audio-tour. It was   great. As you know, I had been to the Coliseum but didn't bother to go   inside or take the tour. It was quite educational; I'm glad I followed up on the suggestion. After that, I knew my legs were just worn out, I took the   subway back to the train station. The begging accordian player and his   female colleague on the subway were not pleased that they received no financial offerings for his music.

Tonight I'm joining the friars for supper (7:45PM) and then I'll pack for the trip to Florence. From Florence I will take day trips to Siena.

26 April 2004 Rome & Florence I unknowingly took the slow train to Florence. Aside from the 2 hours that stretched out to more than 4 hours, it was a beautiful trip. We took a different route than the one we took coming into Rome. The countryside was quite lovely. I noticed that the beginning of gardening season is on, and these folks (at least along the railroad tracks) take gardening very seriously. It made me want to get out and start gardening myself.

I arrived in Florence around 5:30PM, and things were hopping, crowded and crazy. After I checked into a very nearby hotel (a good buy), I immediately made my way to the main plaza and was blown away by the beauty of the city. Besides the many hucksters and vendors along the way, it was enjoyable, although a little crowded. Reaching the Duomo (cathedral) I noticed the famous baptistry, a free standing, elaborate building just for baptisms. It was begun in the 11th century. It was very impressive, especially listening to the audioguide, supplied at the entrance.

I cannot imagine what it will be like in the summer, if this is not even   tourist season yet. I wandered off the main areas onto quiet side streets. That was quite nice and relaxing. I have much to do in the morning, like making reservations for major sights. So I'll check back in Tuesday   sometime. Right now I need to get organized so that I can make the most of the two days in Florence.

27 April 2004 Florence I woke up this morning with legs of lead, just lifting them out of bed was a chore. Well, these legs just better get with it; I have many miles yet to go.

I saw some spectacular art today, beginning in the Museum of San Marco. It used to be a Dominican Priory. There was quite an artist who lived there, and through the years he painted a scene from the life of Christ in each cell. The friars had simple rooms except for the paintings which are the focus of this museum's offerings. Quite nice. At this museum I was able to purchase tickets for the Accademia (today) and the Uffizi (tomorrow). With tickets in hand for the two hottest spots in town, I went to the Duomo for an inside visit. (I must add here that Catholic Churches in Florence do not hesitate to charge a fee for entry, unlike Rome and London. In London the Anglican churches do charge.) The Cathedral or Duomo is quite large but probably not worth the entry fee. They have moved all the great art over to the museum. Yes, you have to pay to see that, too. I did, indeed, go to the museum, which was quite lovely with tremendous things to see. If you come here, skip the church and go right to the museum. Having visited the Duomo museum I noticed that it was close to my reservation time at the Accademia. While waiting I had a wonderful cream puff and ... Diet Coke! In this museum are some really great pieces, but the one best known is the wonderful sculpture of David by Michelangleo, quite stunning. The museum is not terribly big and is expensive, but it was worth it. There were other great paintings and sculptures.

I noticed today that the place comes to a standstill around 12:30PM until around 2:30PM. I guess it's supper and siesta time. All the shops reopen at that time.

After the Accademia, I strolled along the crowded streets to the Church of Santa Maria Novella, near the train station. It was closed last evening when I arrived, and I had some time before going back to my room for a little rest. Yes, again they charge, about $3. It was very nice with great frescoes. It is a quieter place than the others. It was definitely worth seeing.

I may take an evening walk down to the river. The closely constructed buildings throughout the city do not offer a good view of the sky! For this boy who was born and raised on the open prairie that can be a little frightening. I need a good view of the horizon before the day is done.

27 April 2004 Florence (again) After I sent my last posting, I took a brief break and then walked towards the river, I believe it is Fiume Arno. Up to the river I was not able to see very far ahead and certainly not with any wide field of vision, so when I got to the river it just exploded onto my scene, and it was wonderful. What a great view. I am sure part of it was that

I was able to see the sky meeting the land, but it was also quite beautiful land and a great view of the city. I'm glad I ventured to the river. As I walked along the river, it just got more and more beautiful. One of the bridges that crosses the river also has shops on it and probably houses. Hopefully I got a picture of it; it is quite unique. There is also a great view of the river and south side of the city from that bridge. There are artists along the way, some have just thre most lovely paintings; I wish I could afford to buy a truckload and sell them back in the US. I might make some money. That reminds me, Florence is not cheap: $5 for an ice cream cone! Actually it is very good ice cream (gelato), but it's still over-priced, at least in my opinion.

The internet connection here is very slow, and I'm afraid if I write too much or wait too long I may have difficulty sending it. For sure I'll have photos from Florence tomorrow. I also need to make some decisions about where to go next, either back to Rome or a day visit to Siena. I sure would love to get to Siena.

28 April 2004 Florence Having to put up with a noisy night in nearby rooms, I didn't get much sleep. I just wandered around the city after Mass at the Duomo this morning. I am running into more Americans; there are a lot of US students here, it seems. The big event of the day was to be the Uffizi Art Gallery. I'll complain first. There are a lot of steps, and the art is not well presented. The lighting is very poor in this art gallery, too much glare off of the plexiglass for some of the pieces. And the gallery is not very large by other gallery standards. However, the art was spectacular. Seeing Botecelli, da Vinci, Giotto and much, much more was a great treat. I am thankful for the visit to the Uffizi.

It was recommended that I go to the Piazza Michelangelo on the other side of the river. Well, it was wonderful advice. The view from the piazza was truly magnificent. One doesn't get a sense of the beauty of the city unless you get this bird's eye view. It's a long climb but very much worth the aches and pain. Even more panoramic was the view, still higher, from St. Miniato all Monte church at the very peak of the hill. Just wonderful. I realized walking down from the grand views that I probably would not see all this again, so I tried to take in the great sight of Florence, the river, the mountains and the beautiful skies.

From there I made my way to Santa Croce Church inside the city. Until I got there I wasn't quite sure what to expect. It was a Franciscan bonanza! Some of the art of St. Francis that I had seen through the many years as a Franciscan were right here. Although much of the exterior and a great deal of the interior is under reconstruction it was a stop I'm glad I didn't pass up. It definitely demands a visit.

It is supposed to rain throughout Tuscany tomorrow, so I will not go to Siena. Rather I will return to Rome. I regret not being able to get to that city. Perhaps in June I will stop by. Knowing that I will leave Florence tomorrow makes me kind of sad. It deserves so much more time. I purchased my train ticket back to Rome. This time I made sure it is to be the fast train.

Now for something to eat and trying for that good night's rest I badly need

29 April 2004 Florence/Rome My posting today is short. It is another   transition day. My Florence escapade is over. I definitely took a very slow train to Florence. This trip to Rome took 90 minutes, a far cry from the four hour plus trek on Monday! And it wasn't raining in Florence, which means I probably could have gone to Siena. Rats.

Perhaps the highlight of the day was dinner with the friars here in Rome. I finally met the Guardian, Ben from Indonesia. He is most gracious. It was also a treat to sit next to Charles Serignat, who often accompanies our Minister General on his many visits to the friars around the world. A friar who sat across from me (I'm sorry I don't know his name) is from the Tamil Nadu Province, the same province as the friars in Burkina Faso. For those who don't know, the parish of St. Ambrose in Baltimore is in a sister-parish relationship   with a Capuchin parish in the west Africa country of Burkina Faso. Parishioners will remember the name John Britto, who is the Burkina Faso contact friar for the two parishes. We had a great deal to talk about. It was wonderful.

Tomorrow is laundry and prep day. I need to set up arrangements for stays in Germany and also purchase train tickets for some side trips.

I have noticed that each time I reach a new destination I get very   frustrated with myself for not knowing my way around better. I know that is foolish, but it is something that I find annoying. Of course, I wouldn't know my way around in a new place. Who would? I need to be more patient with myself and also build into my expectations what now looks like a good 24 to 36 hours of getting oriented. I am now halfway through this expedition, and I hope I have learned at least this lesson. There are other things that I am slowly recognizing about myself on this trip. You know, I thought this whole thing was about discovering new places, but in some ways I am also discovering myself. I won't bore you with those details.

Except one! I have also noticed that when I get to a new place that I have an immediate reaction of wanting to go home. With the new place, strange customs, unsure environment and knowing that I've got to stay on my toes to survive, I want to return to someplace safe and familiar. I know that I have often given homilies about getting out of our ruts, but, man, do I have ruts!

30 April 2004 Rome I can't believe it is the last day of April already. I   have 31 days left on this tour. My feet are screaming, "Enough already!" I didn't do all that much walking today, nowhere near the walking I have done during the last 36 days.

I did my laundry this morning, and had a nice time talking with one of the women at the laundromat. It was a pleasant and educational passing of time. When I returned to the friary I thought I might make a return trip to the Vatican. This time I was not about to walk all the way, so I took the subway. Crowded and hot, I got there rather quickly. I should probably have waited until later or started a lot earlier because the crowds at St. Peter's were immense. They have much of St. Peter's Basilica cordoned off so that the tourists are herded through lanes. It was not terribly enjoyable. I made a quick way out and slowly walked through the streets nearby, eventually winding up back at the subway for the ride back to the Termini. I think I'll call it a day, have supper with the friars this evening and prepare for the day trip to Assisi. I think my feet need the rest tonight. !

30 April 2004 Rome   (My second and, again brief, posting for the day) Dinner   with the friars was very nice. I sat with John Corriveau and Ignatius Feaver   and had a delightful time. John always looks like he is full of energy and   never wears down. I am certain that his job of endless travel and meetings   has got to be a cross at times, but he doesn't show it one bit. This was my   first time meeting Ignatius, of whom I have heard much over the past years.   He and I talked about friars we mutually have known. I didn't realize that   he spent his formation years in Cumberland and Annapolis. We were able to   share some experiences with Patrick McGann, whom both of us knew in our   respective formation years. Dinner was a nice ending to the day.

01 May 2004 Rome/Assisi It was a lovely day to travel to Assisi, and I caught the early train to do just that. I stopped at the information desk for clarification about the trip. I noticed my ticket was for Folignio and not Assisi, which I had not noticed when I purchased it two days ago. The clerk explained it, and all seemed well. There would be a six minute window for me to get off the train in that city (Folignio) and get on the connecting train for Assisi. I was hoping that our train would make good time. On the way, however, there were five or six young men running through the train eluding the conductor. That precipitated a longer-than-expected stop in one of the small towns when the police boarded to find the stowaways. We didn't reach Folignio until well after the other train was scheduled to leave. But when we got there the train was waiting for us; we boarded and off we went for the twenty minute ride.

I noticed something on this trip I did not notice four years ago. (How could I have noticed since I traveled in the darkness of night then?) I was struck by the rugged terrain between Rome and Assisi. Steep mountains and deep valleys, outcroppings of rocks and boulders, forested mountainsides: it was something I had not imagined. It made Rome and Assisi seem like two very different places.

When I was here four years ago for my first and only visit until today, I went directly to the old city and missed the Portiuncula near the train station. This time I was not going to miss it. I made two visits to that church, after I first arrived and before I left later in the evening. They were two very different experiences. But, as usual, I'm getting ahead of myself. The morning visit was very inspiring. Seeing that "small portion" within the bigger basilica was more than I expected. It was beautiful; it was moving to be able to stop inside and pray, and it was moving to see the crowds that obviously came on pilgrimage. I was impressed even with the simplicity of the grander Basilica that contained this small chapel, so dear to Francis. Unlike the churches in Rome and elsewhere this large church has unadorned ceilings and walls, mostly, anyway. The overwhelming majesty of the marble and gold churches in other places were replaced with the grandeur of light and simplicity. I liked it. A good start to the day.

I then boarded the bus headed for the Basilica of St. Francis. Once again, as it was four years ago, it was a grand view of the old city as we inched up the mountain side. I saw exactly what I saw four years ago and was moved as much today as I was then. After looking long and hard at the great frescoes of the upper and lower churches, I descended to the tomb of Francis. It was too much to be there again. After walking for several hours through the tourist-crowded small city I decided to walk back to the Portiuncula, not a short walk but downhill. I could take that.

I did indeed return to the Portiuncula, but this time the visit was bittersweet. As I sat in one of the pews the walls of the grand basilica were washed in light, almost blindingly. I realize that the great basilica was built around the small chapel to enshrine it, but it looked to me, at that moment, that it was confining and hiding it, towering over it and overwhelming that small, beautiful and crude chapel of Francis. It deeply saddened me, and I wondered why it had to be this way. I wondered how much of the spirit of Francis has been confined, hidden and overwhelmed by ecclesiastical institutionalism and triumphalism. It reminded me of seeing the tunic worn by Francis, patched and unsightly, at the same time knowing that the habits of the friars and mine, too, are ample and neatly pressed. I hope that the spirit of Francis is not reduced to convention; I hope that in some way we recognize our own patches, worn-ness and crudeness and understand that this is our gift to the people of God and God's gift to us. I had to leave.

Without being too abrupt - I am running rather long - the train journey back to Rome was thoroughly enjoyable with a beautiful sunset and only four passengers in the car. It was peaceful and restful.

02 May 2004 Rome After Mass at San Lorenzo on Via Panisperna this morning, I went directly to the train station to firm up two travel plans. I want to go to Montecassino tomorrow, just a day trip that will find me back in Rome Monday evening. Montecassino is the birthplace of religious life as we know it. St. Benedict began that monastery and monasticism in the 500's, I believe. It is supposed to be a beautiful place, and I just want to get a lay of the land there and a feel for it. I needed to get a reservation for my exit from Rome on Wednesday. I'm heading for Venice, the city of canals. Venice is on the northeast coast of Italy. Getting both tickets was a breeze after a rather lengthy wait.

Beyond Venice I have much territory to cover in the remaining four weeks. Perhaps I have again bitten off far more than I can chew, but it looks like a flurry of travel during 26 days. From Venice I'll go to Vienna, Austria, with a day trip to Bratislava, Slovakia. From Vienna I train to Prague,in the Czech Republic. And just to add it to my traveling log, I will go to Katowice, Poland, for about 24 hours. Yeah, Poland! When I return to Prague, I'll board the train for Frankfurt, Germany. There I want to see the place where the Leiker side of my family lived back in the 1600 and 1700's. I hope to get a photo of the church where greatgrandfather George Leiker (actually, many great's back) was baptized. From Frankfurt I'll head south again to Munich, Germany, with the possibility of going to Altoetting where Capuchin St. Conrad of Parzham lived and ministered. After my German tour I'll make for the Swiss Alps and Luzern for a couple of days. Reaching the final installment, I'll get to Paris for several days. Then back to London for the flight back to Maryland on June 1st.

Some of that is subject to change, but I'm trying to lock myself in so I don't change my mind and miss the opportunity I have to see as much of Europe as possible. In all likelihood, except for three weeks at the end of June and beginning of July, I will probably not have this chance ever again in my life. Carpe diem!

It is a pleasant day in Rome. Mostly cloud cover, but the occasional break of sunshine. I wouldn't be surprised if we get some rain tonight. It's feeling a bit muggy.

I'll give a report tomorrow evening about my journey south of Rome to Montecassino. By the way, I don't believe there are any slots or blackjack tables in Montecassino. But I could be wrong.

03 May 2004 Rome I was to go to Montecassino today, but my body was in no mood for it. The train ticket is good for tomorrow, so I'll try in the morning. Last night was rough. As my head hit the pillow my mind began to race right into dreams of endless motion: running, walking, climbing, etc. When I awoke at 3:30AM my lower left leg muscles were as tight as a drum. Needless to say, it was difficult going back to sleep. I decided to stick close by today and search for a place where I could get some quiet and peace. In the afternoon I went for a long stroll in the park nearby the friary. It was very nice and soothing. Just what I needed.

I have no doubt that all of that physical stuff is related to a bad case of homesickness today. I miss my car, my boots, a hot dog, honey nut cheerios, talk radio, decent bathrooms, a familiar bed, small simple churches, fried egg sandwiches, a juicy hamburger, dumplings and beans, sidewalks that aren't jammed with parked motorcycles, sauerbraten, and a million other small things that shouldn't make a difference, but today they do. Oh, I'll get through this, I am sure. In fact, I think when the train starts out for Venice on Wednesday I'll be in a better frame of mind.

Rome is lovely, but I think I've had enough of it. The next four weeks are a whirlwind of traveling. It should be just what the doctor ordered for my homesickness. Perhaps tomorrow I'll have more heartening stories to share.

04 May 2004 Rome/Montecassino As I had hoped yesterday, I certainly did make it to Montecassino today. Getting to and from Cassino was easy; getting from Cassino to Montecassino was a little more difficult. In any event, it was a very good day of traveling. I waited until after rush hour to grab a train, which may have been a mistake. More on that later. The train ride was quite nice. Leaving Rome we saw up close the ancient aqueduct that provided water for Rome, just a stunningly beautiful sight. Although we stopped at every little train station along the way, I enjoyed the view of the country side. Once out of the suburbs of Rome there were plenty of vineyards (just now greening up) and olive groves. Just about every available space is taken up with these two crops. But then the terrain became increasingly more rugged. Again, as with the trip to Assisi, I am astonished that there are such high mountains surrounding Rome, and these to the south. It was a beautiful scene.

Eventually we arrived at Cassino, and from there one can easily see, way up on top of the mountain, the Abbey of Montecassino, founded by St. Benedict around 529AD. I had to figure how to get up there. One problem was that I arrived just as siesta time shut down virtually every business in town. I strolled the streets for awhile; obviously this town is very different from Rome, and I met only one person who spoke English, and she was from Rome. Eventually I found a taxi that took me to the top. What an absolutely splendid view of the Liri Valley as we climbed that mountain. As we gained in elevation the number of towns one could easily see increased. Finally at the summit the driver pointed out the cemeteries for WWII soldiers who liberated Cassino from the Nazis. He told me that his own mother and father were killed during the bombardment.

The monastery or abbey is quite large and very beautiful. I can see why Benedict built a monastery up here; he and the other monks had the best view in town! In the Abbey church I was able to see the tombs of both St. Benedict and St. Scholastica. There are only 22 monks in residence in this gigantic place, which has become more of a tourist spot than a flourishing monastery. Good for the monks there, though, they don't charge an entrance fee!

A couple of hours later I located my driver and we descended the mountain. He showed me where the old Roman Theater was; one can see the ruins of that theater. The driver was quite a gentleman and a big help. Thanks to him I made it back just in time to catch an earlier train than I had planned. And the ride back to Rome was great; I had the whole car to myself the entire two hours returning!

As you can tell, today was a whole lot better than yesterday. The traveling was good medicine for homesickness! Now I must pack as I move on from Rome, northwards to Venice. During the next 28 days I'll put in a lot of miles. I've got to make sure I am organized for that. Hopefully, I'll be able to post a story from Venice tomorrow evening.

05 May 2004 Rome/Venice After cleaning up my room and getting to the internet spot this morning to check on lodging arrangements, I boarded the train for Venice. It was again a lovely ride with great views and a very easy ride. Train is the way to go.

I arrived in Venice right on time, 5:30PM, and was a bit nervous about finding my spot for the night. When I did, they informed me that the bathroom was not working so they were going to put me up at another hotel. It turns out to be in a very quiet neighborhood. It is a very small room, but more than adequate for the short stay here.

After settling in, I turned on the TV, and what was showing? Bonanza in Italian. It was strange watching Hoss saying "Bella!" Then I made off to make my initial exploration Venice. As you know, this city is built on water. I have yet to see a car. Far different from the vehicular chaos of Rome! The only modes of transportation are by foot or by boat. The walkways become incredibly narrow at points. My initial impression is that I am in a labyrinth of sorts. I'll check it all out tomorrow.

06 May 2004 Venice After a night of rain, the morning was crisp and gorgeous with full sunshine until midafternoon. I walked a good part of the day through various parts of the city. It is a beautiful and yet strange city. The canals and old buildings are made just for artists. Around every corner there is a new splash of color, interesting shadows and impossible combinations of water and stone. I made it to San Marco Plaza. There is an unusually beautiful church there. I didn't get to see the inside yet. When I arrived at the Plaza or Square the tide was up and everyone was walking along risers to stay above the intruding water. The walkways, about four feet wide and maybe thirty inches above ground, were jammed with people going in both directions. If it wasn't so exasperating it would be quite humorous. Police, standing in the water with hip boots, direct the pedestrian traffic.

As I observed yesterday, there are no wheeled vehicles here. The beer in trucks that you and I see on the streets and highways in our hometowns is delivered by boat. Dirt that has been excavated is hauled away by boat. Trash is picked up by, you guessed it, boat! The taxis and buses are boats. It is charming but very bewildering to me. When everyone's first floor, both houses and stores, flood every day ... why stay here? And if, as they say, the city is sinking ... do something about for crying out loud! But the residents appear to think this is a piece of heaven whether there is flooding or not. It certainly does make for great tourist business.

Although I am not yet oriented and doubt that I ever would be, it is almost fun to get lost in these walkways and then try to locate where you are on a map to find your way back. The sunset this evening made everything even more splendid. As I have said, there is charm and mystery here. There is beauty and ugliness, and somehow it all works together for a wonderful sight.

On the way back to my room this evening I watched and then helped an elderly woman catch her hyperactive dog, which was tormenting dogs far larger than it. One very big dog was sick and tired of this little mutt and just about bit his head off. But this little dog was smart; it only went after dogs on leashes.

We finally cornered the dog and returned it to the embarrassed lady.

I hope to visit a museum or two tomorrow, get inside the church and palace (Doge).

07 May 2004 Venice It was a fickle weather day. It started out rainy, cleared up nicely, then a downpour thunderstorm, followed by clouds, sun and a clear night sky. It was also a busy day for me. I started by getting to San Marco Basilica. It's an amazing place, with ceilings of incredible mosaics, predominantly in gold. I was amazed by the buckling floors of the church. I understand that this city is sinking, but the church may be worst of all. The floors are hardly smooth. I spent alot of time in the Plaza. Most of the time I was there the tide was down, so the plaza wa not flooded. People were more intrested in feeding the pigeons than anything else, it seemed. About an hour later we noticed water coming up through the plaza drains; the tide was rising. Sure enough, they brought out the risers, or elevated walkways. I got out of there before the madness began. I headed back towards the neighborhood I'm staying in; it is across the canal from the Jewish neighborhood. It was the original Jewish ghetto. Nothing remarkable here except for the fact that the shops and cafes were kosher.

I needed to square away my trip to Vienna, Austria, for Sunday. The folks at the train station got that done quickly. I then bought a ticket to Padua, the hometown of St. Anthony. I'm going to go there tomorrow; it's only 30 minutes away by train. I'll spend a few hours there. The thunderstorm and downpour kept a whole lot of us in the train station for about forty-five minutes. The electricity went out. That was exciting for a little while, then it got old quick.

My dirty laundry was piling up so I had to get that done before Vienna. I ran into an Australian couple who is doing pretty much what I am doing. We had a most pleasant conversation, exchanging experiences and observations about the countries and cities we have visited. Laundry took about 90 minutes. Then I walked around the city, to places I haven't been yet. There is always something new, and I sort of wish I could stay longer. But, as you know, time is running out. I have only 24 days left and need to see about seven more countries. Now is when I need to have my head on right. Keep me in your prayers.

08 May 2004 Venice/Padua As I had planned yesterday, I made the 35 minute trip to Padua, mainly to visit the Basilica of St. Anthony. Upon arrival at the train station I noticed unusual activity. It appeared that there is a drug trade going on there, and I was a bit uncomfortable making my way through the obvious junkies and dealers. But once through there, and nothing of any threat happened, I walked around the city for awhile, trying to get my bearings. It proved to be a minor problem all day. Padua is a nice city; it seems a bit laid back. There is a gigantic open air market where all sorts of merchandise is sold: vegetables, fruits, clothing, flowers, and odds and ends. Nearby there is also a big meat and cheese market. Prosciutto was everywhere hanging from racks. The cheese smelled wonderful. Poultry is partly de-feathered and with heads attached. It really does make a nice picture, believe it or not.

I did indeed make it to the Basilica of St. Anthony. He is buried here, and people form lines to touch his tomb. Many of them have left momentos of thanks and petition for blessings. I noticed near the tomb several photos of young people who had been killed in auto accidents. There really is a devotion to St. Anthony in his home town. The Basilica is all right; in my opinion, nothing to write home about. It's old, and it's big; again, what's new?

I also intended to visit the Duomo, or cathedral, not too far away. I was invited to see the "Bishops Museum." It is a good lesson in the history of the city and church in Padua. It is located in the old bishop's palace. Yes, it was quite a large place. I did get into the cathedral after that and saw the confirmation class preparing for Sunday's big confirmation event. The pastor had quite a time keeping their attention and following directions. They are like kids everywhere. The cathedral is a mix of the old and very modern. It is a large, bright church, and quite different from other churches I have seen lately. I attended the 5PM Mass there.

Many of the sidewalks of Padua are under long, extended archways, with columns every ten feet or so. It was an enjoyable day in a smaller, non- touristy place.

This is my last posting from Italy. I can see why people like and even love Italy, but I'm ready to move on. Pardon me, Italophiles, but I am a little tired of the sunglasses and endless talking. Even in cloudy weather, sunglasses seem to be a fashion must. As for talking, I don't understand what they are saying, but it seems they never stop talking.

Tomorrow I leave for Vienna, Austria. It will take about 8 hours on the train. Because I am not arriving until about 9PM, I am not sure whether I will be able to post the day's travels. I'm sure you will forgive me if I cannot. I will get word to someone that I have arrived safely there. Hopefully!

 

Italy part 2

Monday 28 June and Tuesday 29 June 2004

28 June 2004 Rome It's nice being back in Rome. After taking the bus from Ciampino Airport to Roma Termini, familiar stomping grounds, I immediately went to a neighborhood laundromat (they happily recognized me from a month ago). I left my suitcase with them; and I looked for the Capuchin friary on Via Cairoli. I left my briefcase at the friary, returned to the laundromat, and all was done, suitcase packed and ready to go.

I also reurned to a nearby bar, and the young man smiled at me and said, "We have no Diet Coke." Later at a vendor stand near the train station, the lady remarked that she thought I had left forever. It was neat to be remembered.

Tomorrow Sean O'Malley and I are getting together at 10AM for a brief visit. Later in the day I will attend the Pallium Mass at St. Peter's Square at 6PM. Should be a good day to see an old and dear friend. It is his birthday, as well!

29 June 2004 Rome On this feast of Saints Peter and Paul Romans have the day off. Actually this works out very nicely. The pace and intensity is hugely different from yesterday. I had an appointment with Sean at 10AM. While in a panic to find out exactly where North American College was he called and asked me to join him for lunch at 12:30PM. That gave me some cushion to find my way. I took the Metro to Ottaviano and walked through St. Peter's Square and up Jinuclum Hill. I wound up at the backyard and an unbreachable wall. I asked a nearby resident for directions. She called her husband who graciously drove me to the front door. His name was Fabiano, a biologist, and a very kind man. I arriveda good hour ahead of time. Sean shortly came through, and we had a pleasant talk in the Cardinal Hickey Suite, where he is staying. At 12:45PM the phone rang, and we joined Peter Stravinskas and Nicolas in a taxi for the trip to lunch. It was at a restaurant along the Apia Antica, near the catacombs. I think these guys are Opus Dei. Nick was quite interested in travel; Peter in church politics. The lunch finally ended around 3:30PM, and I got back to Via Cairoli around 4, just in time to freshen up for the trek back to St. Peter's and the blazing sun. I presented my ticket and chose a seat with plenty of leg room. Shortly a woman from the Ivory Coast sat next to me. She was delightful.

The Pallium Mass was great just because Sean was receiving the woolen yoke. But it was also an historic Mass, with Greek Orthodox Patriarch Bartholomew I co-presiding during the Liturgy of the Word. It was a great scene. Sean was third to receive the pallium. With each archbishop, his home-countrymen erupted in cheers. The pope labored with virtually every word he uttered.

I needed to make a quick return to Via Cairoli to pack and rest up for the formidable and nerve-wracking trip to Moscow tomorrow. God help me! But on this very hot night, the fan stopped when the electricity went out for about an hour. It was not a very restful night.