The exhibition is determined by three essential elements that we will analyze individually here. The aperture is the setting that controls the size of the aperture of the light that reaches the lens. Normally, this is done by controlling the aperture blades, which can be changed to allow the opening to become smaller, where less light passes through, or obviously larger when more light is allowed to pass through. Openness is also one of the most critical aspects of the approach.
A large depth of field, necessary when photographers want to focus as much of the photograph as possible, such as landscape photography, requires a minimum possible aperture (high number). This allows foreground and background objects to be in focus. Obviously, the opposite is true, since to achieve a low depth of field, where a particular point is in focus and the other parts of the image are blurred, a low f-stop (low number) must be used. This creates the beautiful bokeh effect that we love, which adds dramatic effects to images where you want to highlight an object or subject, such as macro photographs and portrait photographs.
The fact that you can post-process this effect using Photoshop or similar software today is regrettable, but it shows the popularity it has gained. The ISO is a little less obvious than the previous two in terms of what it is and what role it plays, but it is just as important in determining the correct exposure. The ISO is normally measured from 100, 200, 400, etc. This is because the higher the ISO used, the more “noise” you get in an image, as the image is not as sharp as in the lower ISOs.
In short, sometimes it's not possible, especially in difficult conditions, such as low light. Increasing the ISO may allow you to get images that you wouldn't normally get, but at an additional cost, noise, if you just want to capture the scene and focus precisely, is a secondary idea, then increasing the ISO is an option. When you use a higher ISO, you increase the sensitivity of the image sensor, so the sensor now captures not only more incoming light, but also more ambient noise, reducing image clarity. Not many people are familiar with opening a camera, but there's nothing difficult about it either, once you see what it is.
If you look at an SLR lens, you'll see a set of blades that form a hole in the middle to let light through. That hole is the opening, and the lens can move those blades to make the hole smaller or larger. The bigger the hole, the more light passes through, obviously. The camera aperture control, then, is another way to change the amount of light that reaches the sensor.
Changes in the aperture also change the appearance of the photos. The aperture size controls what part of the image appears to be in focus behind and in front of what you're focusing on. For example, suppose you are taking a picture of someone who is standing in front of you and you can see trees through the large window behind them. If you take the photo with the smallest aperture of the lens (which lets in the LEAST amount of light), the trees in the background will also have a relatively sharp focus.
However, if you take the photo with the widest aperture of the lens, the trees in the background will be very blurry, maybe they are not even recognizable as trees. This effect is called “Depth of Field”. When the background becomes blurry very quickly as it moves away from the subject, we call it “shallow depth of field”. If most of the image appears to be in focus, from near to far, we call it “deep”.
Although I've been talking about the subject's background, the same is true with the foreground; in fact, foreground objects blur even more quickly than the background when the depth of field is low. The term “Depth of Field” is often abbreviated as “DoF” on this website and on the Internet in general. In short, we can say that using small openings creates a larger (deeper) DoF, while using larger openings creates a shallow DoF. Those of you who used to buy movies will remember that you could choose between different types.
In most stores you can buy movies with 100, 200 and 400 speeds, and in a good camera store, you can buy much more than that. These numbers are the ISO rating of the film, sometimes called film speed (or before the 1990s, it was called ASA). With film, the higher the number (for example, 400, 800, 1600), the more “sensitive” 1 Often, the more “sensitive”, more sensitive films developed for longer times, producing more grain and contrast. The film was too clear, so it could be used in darker environments.
The lower the number (for example, 50, 100, 200), the less sensitive to light it was, making it more suitable for use in broad daylight. So why don't people record ISO 1600 movies all the time? Unfortunately, the higher-speed film was also grainer and had more muted colors. The same goes for a high ISO setting.
shooting at
a high ISO “increases the volume of a small amount of data captured by the sensor, but it also increases the background noise of the camera electronics.The result is an image with a very grainy appearance, usually with opaque or imprecise colors and a lower detail resolution. This phenomenon is known as “digital noise”. The opening is like the size of the hose. If we use a standard garden hose to fill the bucket, it will take longer than if we use a fire hose.
Even assuming that the water pressure is the same in each case (and we should, by this analogy), a hose that carries twice as much water will fill the bucket twice as fast. If, on the other hand, you use a small hose (such as an aquarium tube), it will take significantly longer to fill the bucket. If you double the aperture size, the sensor will receive twice as much light in the same period of time. ISO is like the size of a bucket.
If you double the size of the bucket, it will take twice as long to fill it with a hose of the same size OR the same amount of time with a hose twice as large. Similarly, if you lower your ISO from 200 to 100, twice as much light is needed to expose the photo, so you'll have to double the shutter speed duration or double the aperture size. As you can now understand, photography is a game of balance between these three factors. Suppose you take a photo with a medium aperture, an average shutter speed and a medium ISO and its exposure is correct (it fills the cube), but the motion is a bit blurry.
We know that to stop the action, you need to use a faster shutter speed (don't leave the water on for so long). But if you ONLY change the shutter speed, then your “bucket” won't fill up. To compensate for the change in shutter speed, you should let in more light with a larger opening (larger hose) or use a higher ISO (smaller bucket). But if you use a larger aperture, you'll get a smaller depth of field and, therefore, a more blurry background.
If you use a higher ISO instead, you get more digital noise. In some cases, it is desirable to have a blurred background, so this can be an easy option. ISO and noise don't work as you explain. I understand that it's easy to explain this way, but taking cheap shortcuts will cause problems later on.
Almost all of the noise in the photograph comes from the nature of the light itself (called photon noise). If you use a small exposure (which in itself is a combination of f-stop, exposure time and luminance of the scene; the ISO has nothing to do with that), you'll see a lot of noise because the statistics the variation of photons becomes more evident. The electronic noise from the camera or image sensor is very small and doesn't really play any role unless we opt for extremely low exposures with just a few photons reaching the relevant pixels. In addition, increasing the ISO itself does not increase noise; in almost all cameras, in fact, it reduces it slightly; take two images (with RAW) with the same exposure and different ISOs and view them with the same brightness, and the image with higher ISO is usually a little cleaner; the difference is more visible with ISO.
100 versus ISO 1600 or more. In addition, changing the ISO does not change the sensitivity of the sensor in any way: the ISO changes the brightness of the image if a JPG photograph is taken. Sensor sensitivity is constant. In the video you didn't use the word “apparent”, which saves the article.
Unfortunately, the sound effects and music let him down. Perhaps the most important thing for pointing and shooting is finding the “exposure compensation” controls. At least it allows you to make an image brighter or darker. Your video The Three Fundamentals of Photography is great.
It's simple, concise and explains the fstop, the shutter speed and the ISO ratio in a very easy to understand way. His use of graphics to explain the relationship is inspirational. I have been teaching basic digital photography afternoons at a local university for years. This relationship is fundamental to a good photograph and it can be difficult to show it in a way that everyone can understand.
Now, at the end of the night, when I teach the exhibition, I will provide the link to your video to my classes. It will be a valuable asset that will further inculcate the information I cover in class. I know it's not an exact science, but it helped me quickly decide on the basic ISO settings in any situation and I think that information would make the video even better for beginning photographers. Wow, you're a genius explaining the basics.
All the time I've spent trying to understand the basic dynamics of ISO and shutter speed. I am so happy to have found this view, I am so ecstatic. I'm looking forward and excited to read more. This is one of the most fundamental elements of photography.
The amount of light you use in your photos is extremely important to ensure the output of the images. To capture stunning images, you must ensure that there is a balance and that your photos are not subject to underexposure or overexposure. The environment of your photos depends largely on color. A slight variation in colors can evoke different emotions, from happy to calm and gloomy.
You must understand when your images should be colorful and when they should be dimmer. Each of your photos should be able to tell a story about what the image is about. Just like professionals who see a moment in any normal situation, you'll also need to take images in any situation that convey what you're trying to show. Mastering photography is difficult, but if you give 100 percent and have a little patience, you'll also be able to capture stunning images.
It's true that you can gain a lot by emulating others, so you should also follow the work of successful photographers and try to understand their techniques. You'll learn a lot by studying their images and applying their principles to your photograph. Know Why You're Photographing Even if you're flavoring without a definite image in mind, you're still coming out with a camera and a purpose. The objective here would be to observe, write down things that are different or exceptional and record them.
This leads to a kind of mental healing and observation before you even turn on the camera; you're already pre-selecting and evaluating the scene in your subconscious before trying to isolate and record it. There is a purpose, and that purpose guides coherence. . .
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